Pembroke Welsh Corgi dog breed

The Pembroke Welsh Corgi is a long (compared to the legs), low to the ground dog. Their backs are actually not longer than most dogs, their legs are just very short in comparison. The skull is wide and flat between the ears. The stop is moderate. The topline is level. The nose is black and the jaw meets in a scissors bite. The oval eyes are shades of brown depending on the dogs coat color. The eye rims are black. The erect ears are medium in size tapering slightly to a rounded point. The legs are very short. The feet are oval in shape. Dewclaws are usually removed. The dog is sometimes born with no tail, and is docked as short as possible when they do have a tail. Note: it is illegal to dock tails in most parts of Europe. The double coat has a short, thick, weather resistant undercoat with a longer, coarser outer coat. Some Corgis are born with longer coats called the "fluffy Corgi" or "long-haired Corgi". These dogs do not make the written standard and cannot be shown. Coat colors include red, sable, fawn, black and tan with or without white markings. There are often white markings on the legs, chest, neck and parts of the muzzle.



The most obvious difference between the Pembroke Welsh Corgi and the Cardigan Welsh Corgi is that the Pembroke lacks a tail while the Cardigan has a long tail. The Pembroke usually has straighter legs as it is not quite as long- bodied as a Cardigan; the Pembroke's head is generally more wedge-shaped; the ears are smaller and closer together than the Cardigans; also the Pembroke tends to be lighter than the Cardigan.

Temperament
   

The Pembroke Welsh Corgi is highly intelligent, loyal, able and willing to please their owners. Corgis are extremely active and are good with children so long as the dog sees humans as above him in the pack order. Protective and sturdy, they make fine guards, and excellent show and obedience dogs. Wary of strangers, it should be properly socialized and trained when it is still young. They need their humans to have a determined, consistent loving approach, showing firm but calm leadership with proper human to canine communication to avoid over-protective behaviors as an adult. They sometimes try to herd people by nipping at their heels, although they can and should be trained not to do this. The Pembroke tends to bark a lot and makes a good watch dog. If you find your dog is barking at you in order to communicate you need to hush the dog and look into your leadership skills. A dog that is barking at you in that manner is showing signs of dominancy issues. The human handlers need to communicate to the dog that aggressiveness with other dogs is an unwanted behavior. Usually good with non-canine animals. Do not allow the Corgi to developed Small Dog Syndrome.



Height, Weight
    Height: Dogs 10-12 inches (25-30cm) Bitches 10-12 inches (25-30cm)
Weight: Dogs 25-30 pounds (11-14kg) Bitches 24-28 pounds (11-13kg)

Health Problems
    Prone to PRA, glaucoma and back disorders. Gains weight easily. Do not overfeed for if they become fat it can cause back problems.

Living Conditions
    Corgis will do fine in an apartment if they are sufficiently exercised. With enough exercise they can be calm indoors, but will be very active if they are lacking. Will do okay without a yard so long as they are taken for daily walks.

Exercise
    Naturally active little dogs, they should always be encouraged to remain so. They need to be taken on a daily, long walk. While out on the walk the dog must be made to heel beside or behind the person holding the lead, as in a dog's mind the leader leads the way, and that leader needs to be the human.

Life Expectancy
    About 12-15 years.

Grooming
    The soft, medium-length water-resistant coat is easy to groom. Comb and brush with a firm bristle brush, and bathe only when necessary. The coat is shed twice a year.

Origin
   

The Cardigan Welsh Corgi is older than the Pembroke Welsh Corgi, with the Pembroke being bred out of the Cardigan. Both Corgi varieties may be a descendant of the Keeshond, Pomeranian, Schipperkes and the Swedish Vallhund. Some say the older Cardigan was from Cardiganshire brought there by the Celts in 1200 BC. Whereas the Pembroke's ancestors were introduced by Flemish weavers to the Celts in the 1100s. Whatever the case may be the Cardigan and the Pembroke Welsh Corgis were interbred and considered the same breed up until 1934 when a show judge thought they were too different and separated them into two different breeds. After they were separated the Pembroke gained in popularity and is to this day more popular than the Cardigan. The name "corgi" is specific to that type of dog breed in Cymreig (Welsh). Dog in Cymreig (Welsh) is 'Ci' or if it is softly mutated 'Gi', hence Corgi. The Pembroke was actually recognized by the AKC a year before the Cardigan. The Cardigan was recognized in 1935 and the Pembroke in 1934. Corgis were used as cattle drivers, vermin hunters and farm guards. They drove cattle by barking and nipping at the cattle's heels rather than just herding them. The dog's low stature helped him role out of the way of kicking cows.

Siberian Husky dog is known for its amazing and friendly

Bred in Northeast Asia as a sled dog, the Siberian Husky is known for its amazing endurance and willingness to work. Its agreeable and outgoing temperament makes it a great all-around dog, suitable for anything from sledding to therapy work. Because it originated in cold climates, Siberians have a thicker coat then most other breeds of dog, made up of a dense cashmere-like undercoat and a longer, coarse top coat. All colors from black to pure white are allowed, and a variety of markings on the head is common.

A Look Back

The Siberian Husky is widely believed to have originated from within the Chukchi Tribe, off the eastern Siberian peninsula. These dogs were used in 1908 for the All-Alaskan Sweepstakes, which consisted of a 408 mile long dogsled race, and served in the Army’s Arctic Search and Rescue Unit during World War II.

Right Breed for You?

Siberians are relatively easy keepers, but their thick coats require weekly brushing. New owners should be prepared to provide an outlet for exercise daily, whether through walks or an enclosed space in which to run. Predatory instincts are strong, so Siberians should be supervised around small animals in and around the home.

train the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is an elegant, energetic toy breed that is compatible for city or country life. Successful in conformation shows, obedience and agility, they also make wonderful therapy dogs due to their sweet, gentle natures. The breed also became a TV star when featured on "Sex and the City" as Charlotte York’s dog. Their silky coats come in four colors – Blenheim (chestnut and white), Tricolor (black, white, and tan), Ruby (solid red) and Black and Tan.
A Look Back
For centuries, the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel (a namesake of King Charles II of Britain) has been recorded in paintings and tapestries together with their aristocratic families. It is obvious from these works of art that Cavaliers were a luxury item and lived "the easy life" as housepets. Though used successfully for shooting small game, the Cavalier’s true purpose has always been that of companion.
Right Breed for You?
Friendly and easy to train, the Cavalier is a trustworthy companion for children and thrives as part of a family. The coat requires weekly brushing, but no trimming. The breed is adaptable in their need for exercise, happy with either sleeping on the couch or taking long walks.

General Appearance

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is an active, graceful, well-balanced toy spaniel, very gay and free in action; fearless and sporting in character, yet at the same time gentle and affectionate. It is this typical gay temperament, combined with true elegance and royal appearance which are of paramount importance in the breed. Natural appearance with no trimming, sculpting or artificial alteration is essential to breed type.

Size, Proportion, Substance

Size - Height 12 to 13 inches at the withers; weight proportionate to height, between 13 and 18 pounds. A small, well balanced dog within these weights is desirable, but these are ideal heights and weights and slight variations are permissible. Proportion - The body approaches squareness, yet if measured from point of shoulder to point of buttock, is slightly longer than the height at the withers. The height from the withers to the elbow is approximately equal to the height from the elbow to the ground. Substance - Bone moderate in proportion to size. Weedy and coarse specimens are to be equally penalized.

Head

Proportionate to size of dog, appearing neither too large nor too small for the body. Expression - The sweet, gentle, melting expression is an important breed characteristic. Eyes - Large, round, but not prominent and set well apart; color a warm, very dark brown; giving a lustrous, limpid look. Rims dark. There should be cushioning under the eyes which contributes to the soft expression. Faults - small, almond-shaped, prominent, or light eyes; white surrounding ring. Ears - Set high, but not close, on top of the head. Leather long with plenty of feathering and wide enough so that when the dog is alert, the ears fan slightly forward to frame the face. Skull - Slightly rounded, but without dome or peak; it should appear flat because of the high placement of the ears. Stop is moderate, neither filled nor deep. Muzzle - Full muzzle slightly tapered. Length from base of stop to tip of nose about 1½ inches. Face well filled below eyes. Any tendency towards snipiness undesirable. Nose pigment uniformly black without flesh marks and nostrils well developed. Lips well developed but not pendulous giving a clean finish. Faults - Sharp or pointed muzzles. Bite - A perfect, regular and complete scissors bite is preferred, i.e. the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square into the jaws. Faults - undershot bite, weak or crooked teeth, crooked jaws.

Neck, Topline, Body

Neck - Fairly long, without throatiness, well enough muscled to form a slight arch at the crest. Set smoothly into nicely sloping shoulders to give an elegant look. Topline - Level both when moving and standing. Body - Short-coupled with ribs well spring but not barrelled. Chest moderately deep, extending to elbows allowing ample heart room. Slightly less body at the flank than at the last rib, but with no tucked-up appearance. Tail - Well set on, carried happily but never much above the level of the back, and in constant characteristic motion when the dog is in action. Docking is optional. If docked, no more than one third to be removed.

Forequarters

Shoulders well laid back. Forelegs straight and well under the dog with elbows close to the sides. Pasterns strong and feet compact with well-cushioned pads. Dewclaws may be removed.

Hindquarters

The hindquarters construction should come down from a good broad pelvis, moderately muscled; stifles well turned and hocks well let down. The hindlegs when viewed from the rear should parallel each other from hock to heel. Faults - Cow or sickle hocks.

Coat

Of moderate length, silky, free from curl. Slight wave permissible. Feathering on ears, chest, legs and tail should be long, and the feathering on the feet is a feature of the breed. No trimming of the dog is permitted. Specimens where the coat has been altered by trimming, clipping, or by artificial means shall be so severly penalized as to be effectively eliminated from competition. Hair growing between the pads on the underside of the feet may be trimmed.

Color

Blenheim - Rich chestnut markings well broken up on a clear, pearly white ground. The ears must be chestnut and the color evenly spaced on the head and surrounding both eyes, with a white blaze between the eyes and ears, in the center of which may be the lozenge or "Blenheim spot." The lozenge is a unique and desirable, though not essential, characteristic of the Blenheim. Tricolor - Jet black markings well broken up on a clear, pearly white ground. The ears must be black and the color evenly spaced on the head and surrounding both eyes, with a white blaze between the eyes. Rich tan markings over the eyes, on cheeks, inside ears and on underside of tail. Ruby - Whole-colored rich red. Black and Tan - Jet black with rich, bright tan markings over eyes, on cheeks, inside ears, on chest, legs, and on underside of tail. Faults - Heavy ticking on Blenheims or Tricolors, white marks on Rubies or Black and Tans.

Gait

Free moving and elegant in action, with good reach in front and sound, driving rear action. When viewed from the side, the movement exhibits a good length of stride, and viewed from front and rear it is straight and true, resulting from straight-boned fronts and properly made and muscled hindquarters.

he Great Dane is a giant breed

The Great Dane is a giant breed that takes up more room in the house, needs an appropriate sized car to ride in safely and will cost considerably more to maintain than a small breed. Have you taken all this into consideration? A Great Dane, especially a rambunctious puppy, can knock down a small child in play. A Great Dane must never be left unsupervised with small children. A Great Dane can be very destructive to your furniture, woodwork, garden, and personal belongings. Are you prepared to deal with this? Big dogs have big medical expenses and require the same amount of medicine as an adult person. Are you prepared to purchase canine health insurance or face huge bills in the event of a health emergency? A Great Dane MUST be obedience trained to obtain control. Are you willing to put in the time and effort to train your dog properly? The Great Dane is a sociable, friendly breed. Great Danes needs to have human contact, affection, regular socialization with other people and animals, and firm, consistent training. Are you ready to provide this? Great Danes require exercise appropriate to their age. Many do not “self-exercise.” Are you committed to providing proper exercise in all types of weather? Great Danes have good noses and many have a “stubborn streak.” When not on a leash, they need a fenced yard or they may “follow their noses.” Can you commit to putting up a sturdy, appropriate fence? Great Danes can be excellent companions for almost any activity you wish to pursue including jogging, but you *must* wait until after your pup is two years old to avoid damage to growing joints. If you are looking for a puppy, are you willing to wait for it to grow up? Unless you can answer yes to ALL the above questions, then a Great Dane is not the dog for you.

HOW TO FIND A “GREAT” GREAT DANE

The best place to obtain a well-bred Great Dane is from a reputable breeder. The key here is “reputable”. At all costs, avoid backyard breeders, on-line brokers and puppy mills, who work with poor quality bloodlines which may be genetically prone to a host of health problems. White Great Danes may be deaf or blind and ‘designer’ colors are usually bred by back yard breeders with no regard to quality or health. Backyard breeders and puppy mills are only interested in making a profit, frequently advertising in local newspapers or selling entire litters to pet stores for resale.

HOW TO IDENTIFY A REPUTABLE BREEDER

Once you have decided that the Great Dane is the right breed for you and you have located a reputable breeder who has puppies available, the next step may be receiving a set of photos in the mail or by email or an invitation to visit the puppies. Although some breeders let buyers choose a puppy, many breeders match the personalities of the puppies with the personalities and lifestyles of the buyers. It is not unusual for the breeder to select the puppy for you.

Questions a Breeder May Ask

1. Have you ever owned dogs before and specifically a Great Dane? Familiarity with dogs insures a higher success rate in placing a puppy in a new home. It is a particular “plus” if a prospective buyer has had the experience of owning a unique breed like the Great Dane. 2. Why do you want a Great Dane? It is important to determine if a giant dog like the Great Dane will be the right choice for a new buyer. This is a breed that matures slowly, but will be very large at maturity. It’s important for the buyer to be fully aware of this, since “he got too big” is one of the reasons Great Danes end up in rescue. 3. Do you have an enclosed or fenced in backyard? The dominant sense of all dogs is the nose, which gives them the tendency to roam. They may become injured or lost. The large size of the breed makes some people over-react to a dog this size. Chaining a Dane (or any breed) to an outdoor doghouse or tree is inhumane and can result in serious injury or death. 4. Where will your new puppy live? The friendly, affectionate nature of the Dane and the fact that this breed craves the companionship of other animals and people means that it will be happiest in the house where it can be cared for by a loving family. 5. How long will the puppy be alone? Breeders are reluctant to place a Great Dane puppy in a home where it will be alone for excessively long periods. Even the companionship of another dog or cat will go a long way in providing companionship for a new dog. The affectionate Great Dane does not do well by itself for extended periods. 6. Are you willing to spay or neuter a pet Great Dane? Spaying or neutering is usually required by responsible breeders who do not want their valuable bloodlines be used by novice and backyard breeders. 7. Can you afford not only the purchase price of this pet but also the maintenance? New owners need to be aware of how much it costs to keep their pet well cared for and healthy. 8. Is the decision to purchase a Great Dane a unanimous one in your family? Danes who go into a family situation where not everyone wants this unique breed may start out with a couple of strikes against them. 9. May I visit your home or have a friend visit? Breeders may want to come to your home to see for themselves where their puppy will live, or, if they live some distance from you, they may ask another breeder to do this for them. 10. Who is your vet? The breeder will want to know that you have a reliable source of veterinary care for your Dane and may want to speak with him or her. You will need to find a veterinarian who has experience with large breed dogs.

Questions to Ask a Breeder

1. How long have you been breeding AKC Great Danes? Good breeders have usually been involved with Great Danes and showing their dogs for a minimum of 3 or 4 years. 2. Do you belong to the Great Dane Club of America or an Affiliate Great Dane Club? Membership in these clubs involves working within a code of ethics that gives greater credibility to a breeder. Some unscrupulous people have been known to claim false membership in clubs so you want to verify such memberships. 3. What type of activities do your dogs participate in? A majority of breeders are involved in conformation competition. This would indicate that their Danes are probably good physical representations of the breed. Other breeders may participate in obedience, tracking or other companion competitions. 4. What type of health problems do you see in your Great Danes? Virtually every breeder who has been involved with any breed will encounter some health problems from time to time, so beware the breeder who says he/she has never seen any problems. Refer to the section on Health to familiarize yourself with some of the common health problems in the Great Dane. Ask what types of health testing the sire and dam have had. 5. Do you have any puppies available, and if not, when do you plan another litter? In some parts of the country, there is frequently a shortage of Great Dane puppies. Some breeders receive up to 8 or 9 calls a week for pet puppies with no litters being anticipated for perhaps another 6 months or longer. The majority of breeders will put your name on a waiting list. Other breeders whose lists are full are usually more than willing to refer you to other reputable breeders in the area. 6. What kind of warranty do you offer? Guarantees vary among breeders and are sometimes connected to your agreement to raise your puppy according to the individual contract agreed upon. 7. What is the price of the dog? Pet puppies might be less expensive than show prospects, but many breeders feel they have put equal love, effort, time and money into all puppies in a litter and have the same price for both pet and show puppies. What separates a show potential dog from a companion only may be trivial, therefore, don’t expect to get a “cheap” puppy from a breeder and never request the one who has “something wrong” with it. 8. What type of paperwork will the breeder provide? Reputable breeders will provide a bill of sale, a four generation AKC pedigree, and a contract detailing the conditions of the sale. AKC registration papers will be included unless they simply have not yet arrived back from AKC in the mail. Most reputable breeders will also give you information in writing in the form of articles, pamphlets or even books to help you raise your puppy. All health and diet information will be spelled out in detail here and in conversations with your breeder.

NEVER BUY A GREAT DANE FROM A PET STORE OR AN ON-LINE BROKER

Pet store Great Danes and those from on-line brokers come from backyard breeders and puppy mills. Most likely, you will not know who bred your dog or have anyone to contact if you have questions or a problem. The health of these Danes is generally at risk because they were not bred by knowledgeable breeders devoted to improving the health and appearance of the Great Dane. Pet store puppies are separated from their mothers at too early an age and usually do not have the chance to develop healthy bodies and temperaments. In fact, pet store Danes often become seriously ill and end up costing their owners hundreds and even thousands of dollars in veterinary expenses. Pet stores, puppy mills and on-line brokers do not guarantee the long-term health of a puppy.

Most poorly bred Great Danes are smaller than those from reputable kennels and often lack the majestic head and expression that define the breed. They may, instead, look more like Greyhound or Labrador Retriever mixes. Despite the inferiority of the dogs they sell, pet stores usually charge as much, if not more, than reputable breeders of quality Great Danes do.

No matter how impatient you or your children are to get a Great Dane, it is always better to wait, even a few months or longer, and get one from a good breeder!

The kissing gourami is a peaceful for your fish tank

The kissing gourami is a peaceful species that should be housed with fish of similar size and temperament. Males will occasionally fight by "pressing" their mouths together — hence the common name.

 The kissing gourami should be housed in large aquariums (i.e., 75 gallons or more) that are densely planted with Java fern and Java moss on the sides and back of the aquarium, as well as floating plants, such as Riccia species. Artificial plants are recommended, as live plants will be regarded as food. Decorate with bogwood and rockwork to provide sufficient area for algae to grow on, as this species will browse algae-covered surfaces as a supplement to its diet.

 The kissing gourami accepts a wide range of foods, including small live foods, such as bloodworms, Tubifex worms, earthworms, glass worms and brine shrimp, as well as flake and freeze-dried foods.


Supplement with vegetable matter in the form of Spirulina-based foods or parboiled vegetables, such as romaine lettuce, zucchini or peas.

 Because it is difficult to differentiate between the sexes, it is best to purchase a group of six or more and let them pair up. This fish does not build nests, but it is capable of producing large spawns — up to 10,000 eggs per spawning. The eggs will float to the surface and attach themselves to various surfaces (i.e., plant stems, leaves). Some aquarists float a lettuce leaf in the aquarium as both a site of attachment for the eggs, and a source of infusoria, which the fry will feed on as an initial food. The parents should be removed from the aquarium after spawning, and the eggs will hatch in about four days.

The Afghani dog breed is very friendly

A hero stray dog who saved the lives of British troops has been rescued from the Taliban in a daring raid by Afghan commandos.

Brin the Afghan hound was adopted by Coldstream Guards and handed over to Gurkha Rifles troops after wandering on to their base several months ago.

The friendly desert dog, who looks like a cross between a Staffordshire Bull Terrier and a Jack Russell, then started following them on patrols into the Taliban badlands.

Soon the clever pooch started barking at suspicious-smelling mounds in the dirt which were found to be deadly Taliban roadside bombs.

It meant soldiers were able to avoid the explosives and in some cases destroy them.

For the past few months Brin has made himself at home at Patrol Base 4, where B Company, 1st Battalion, Royal Gurkha Rifles are based, surrounded by Taliban.



British troops began to value Brin’s company and locals heard the Taliban were becoming angry the Brits had flown in a “specially trained SAS dog”.

Brin would accompany soldiers on security patrols around the villages and into the insurgent-infested Green Zone, flanking the Helmand River. But while tagging along with a recent patrol, plans changed at the last minute and his Gurkha comrades were extracted by helicopter.

Poor Brin was left behind as the aircraft made a hasty departure and Taliban forces were able to take the dog prisoner, bragging to locals they had “kidnapped an SAS dog”.

The soldiers expected Brin to find his way back to base as he usually did, but when he failed to return they asked the Afghan National Army to lookout for him.

Last week Afghan commandos arrived at camp with little Brin after seizing him from his captors in a raid on Taliban positions.

Captain Mark Townsend, who looks after the dog, said: “Brin’s very cheerful and our folks have sent anti-flea and de-worming tablets.

“He’s finally got toys and dog treats, all things he’s never seen before. It’s nice to have him with us.

“He’s a big morale booster. He’s a reminder of our pets in the UK and it’s nice to have a bit of a break once in a while and have something that’s like a comfort from home.”

Italian Mastiff dog is very protector

An ancient Italian breed, the Cane Corso is a working dog, also known as an Italian Mastiff. The dog originated from the Mastino dogs of Tibet used to guard the ancient monasteries. Used also during ancient times, the Cane Corso was known as a fine hunting dog and protector and was considered a formidable opponent in battles.

In medieval times, the Cane Corso was used to carry valuables and run alongside his master, guarding jewels and money in case of attack. Because the Cane Corso could come up against a wild boar or a bear and not back down, he was known as a dog of great courage and strength.

When the call for hunting dogs faded, the Cane Corso found himself working on farms. The Cane Corso was instrumental in protecting all the livestock, and helping to drive the herds to market or to slaughter. Known also for his courage he was a loyal guard dog and today continues to guard country estates all over Italy.

Appearance - The Cane Corso is a medium to large sized dog, very powerful, broad and muscular. The Cane Corso is obedient when trained, and willing to please. They are possessive of their property and make excellent watchdogs, for guarding is instinctive with them. Athletic and well-muscled the Cane Corso sports a short coat, a wide muzzle and intense eyes. Eye colour will reflect coat colour - dark coated animals will have dark eyes, light coated dogs - light eyes. The double coat is short but oily, enabling it to repel water. Tails are docked and although imported dogs may have cropped ears, this is a purely cosmetic procedure which stems from days when the dogs were used in fights.

Description - In 1987 the breed was brought over to America, where it was recognized for all the fine qualities that it possessed. A true pack animal, the Cane Corso is happiest within the family. The puppies are not known to get into much mischief, and unlike other larger breed dogs, there is very little that goes wrong with this breed as it grows up.  The breed standard has been upheld and the dog is loyal, steady, and stout-hearted.

They are wonderful dogs and considered to be one of the rare breeds left in the world

The pretty Eclectus Parrot is cute

ECLECTUS PARROTS

The personality and appear­ance of the Eclectus is unique. It is intelligent, playful and entertaining, but also can be quiet and observant.

Its colors appear more vibrant than most parrot species, and its head and breast feathers look more like silky hair.

The Eclectus parrot is the best of everything that intrigues us about parrots.

Physical Features

Many parrots that are popular pets are of one genus but several species. Eclectus parrots, uniquely, are all of the same genus (Eclectus) and species (roratus).

Experts disagree on the amount of subspecies there are, as many as 10 have been recognized.

The four subspecies available in the United States are the Grand (E. r. roratus), Vosmaeri (E. r. polychloros), Red sided (E .r. polychloros) and Solomon Island (E. r. solomonensis).

The five not commonly available in the United States are the Macgillivray (E. r. macgill ivrayi), Aruensis (E. r. aruensis), Cornelia (E. r. cor­nelia), Riedeli (E. r. riedeli) and Biaki (E. R. biaki).

The Westerman s (E. r. west­ermani) is known only from taxidermic aviary specimens.

Distinguishing these sexually dimorphic birds is easy: Males are mostly brilliant green and females are mostly purple with red heads. Distinguishing one subspecies from another is a different story.

For the males, you would probably have to line them up next to each other and be very familiar with all their subtle differences to stand a chance at telling them apart.

The female subspecies are more easily determined, with the following guidelines:

·         The Vosmaeri female is readily identifiable by her daisy yellow tail band,  the clear yellow 'V' in the vent area, and the absence of a blue eye ring.

·         The red sided and Solomon Island females can be identified by their cobalt blue breasts with a definite bib, rather than the gradual blending of the breast colors of the Vosmaeri female. Also, a ring of blue feathers surrounding the eye is an easy identification characteristic of the red sided and Solomon Island females.

·         The Grand female has neither the wide, clear yellow tail band of the Vosmaeri female, nor the solid red tail of the red sided and Solomon Island female, but rather a narrow tipping of dull yellow orange.

The Eclectus is con­sidered a medium size parrot. The length of the commonly available Eclectus subspecies ranges 12 to14½ inches and the wingspan is from 2 to 2½ feet.

Weight ranges are tricky because the sizes and weights of the different subspecies can overlap. It is more realistic to use a general weight range based on an average of the combined weights of all the available subspecies. The average weight of the adult male Eclec­tus is 430 grams with a range of 388 to 524 grams.

Housing Requirements

Cages should be as large as customers can afford and comfortably fit into their homes. In this case, a minimum of 30 inches wide, 24 inches deep and 36 inches high.

Outgoing birds will enjoy living directly in the traffic pattern that brings family members and friends by the cage throughout the day. More introverted birds should be placed away from the main traffic pattern where they can observe the activity of family and friends while maintaining enough pri­vate space to feel safe and se­cure.

Eclectus enjoy destroying softwood toys, manipulating handheld toys and meeting the challenge of a toy with a treat trapped inside. Advise cus­tomers to place spiral perches, swings and ropes around the cage to encourage exercise.

Dietary Needs

A varied diet is the key to a healthy Eclectus.

Start with a commercially manufactured diet of pellets and add plenty of juicy fruits, vitamin packed vegetables, leafy greens, sprouted seeds, dry seeds, nuts and cooked carrots and sweet potatoes.

An ongoing myth is that Eclectus parrots need extra vita­min A in their diets. They don't need more vitamin A than other par­rots, but rather enough of it. This can be supplied by a balanced diet that includes col­orful fruits and vegetables.

If we choose the most col­orful foods like deep green kale, collard and dandelion greens, bright yellow and orange pumpkin, sweet potatoes, can­taloupe, papaya and red pep­pers, Eclectus can convert the natural beta-carotene content of these whole foods into sufficient vitamin A to maintain health.

The purple martin birds is most popular in america

Summary: The purple martin, Progen sub is, is the largest member of the swallow family and is a migratory bird that spends spring and summer nesting throughout most of the United States and southern Canada. Being colonial birds, they like to inhabit man-made houses. They are extremely popular and there are national organizations dedicated to their conservation. Veterinarians in the United States will benefit from having a basic understanding of the purple martin and its behavior, as we may be occasionally called upon to consult with enthusiasts who are having problems with their colony.

Introduction

The purple martin, Progne subis, is the largest member of the swallow family, averaging 17-20 cm in length. It resembles other members of the swallows, having a slender body, long wings, and a wide beak. The tail is forked, but not as deeply, as other swallows. The purple martin migrates to North America during the spring, and spends the summer here breeding. During our winter season, it flies back to South America. Sao Paulo, Brazil is a major wintering area for millions of these birds.
The purple martin flies by alternating short glides with rapid flapping. They are superb fliers, and catch flying insects in flight. They have the ability to dive to their birdhouse door, spreading the wings to slow the dive just before entering the house.

Sexual Identification

Purple martins are sexually dimorphic. Males are a shiny blue-black, hens are smaller, lighter in color, and have a spotted pale gray throat, breast and abdomen. Juveniles resemble the adult in coloration, and males will not obtain their adult coloration until their second breeding season.

Migration

Martins arrive in the Deep South before the cold days of winter are over. They begin seeking nest sites during the first two weeks of February. Martins arrive singly or in small groups. Males arrive first, usually a few days before the hens, to scout for potential nesting sites. Because of their early arrival, martins may be caught in cold weather, and if the cold weather lasts for several days, insect activity may be severely reduced, and large numbers of martins may starve to death, since they feed only on insects. Martins continue to arrive through May.
Within three weeks of the young fledging in late July, the southward migration normally begins. By early August, most of the purple martins are beginning to congregate in large flocks in preparation for migration. Adult males are the first to leave, followed shortly thereafter by the adult hens and immature birds.

Nesting

Martins usually nest in colonies, although in isolated areas, some pairs nest alone. Historically, purple martins nested in cliffs, hollow trees and abandoned woodpecker holes. Today, most nest in man-made nesting sites. Males that find a suitable breeding site may fight to keep out intruding males. Hens will do some window-shopping before deciding on a nesting site and male. Both the male and female contribute to nest construction.
Many martins return to the same nesting site as long as they live. They may even select the same room in a birdhouse, if possible. Man-made birdhouses and condominiums are the most common and preferred nesting sites. They prefer nesting in houses away from trees. The more apartments in a house, the more attractive the house is to martins. They build a nest of straw, leaves and mud. Green leaves are used to line the nest.

Declining Numbers

There are few natural predators of purple martins. Starlings and sparrows may take over martin houses, preventing the martins from breeding. Another problem is the decreasing numbers of natural nesting sites. They are vulnerable to weather. In cold weather, there may not be enough insects to sustain them, and in hot weather, young birds may die in their houses before fledging. Mites and other parasites may kill some young birds. Cats, raccoons, owls and snakes may catch and eat birds. Pesticides kill birds by eradicating insects that they consume.
Sparrows may establish dominance in man-made houses before the first martins arrive. Sparrow nests are made of straw and will fill the entire compartment. Sparrow eggs are white and speckled. All of their nesting material should be removed and destroyed to encourage purple martins to establish.

Diet

Martins are exclusively insectivores. On cool, cloudy days, martins feed low to the ground where insects congregate. During warmer periods, martins may forage 30-40 meters in the air. On warm summer mornings, martins may be seen 300 meters high, catching insects. Adults may feed young birds in the nest over 100 insects per day. Although they do consume mosquitoes, they have a reputation for controlling the mosquito problem in areas they inhabit, however, this is an exaggeration.

Breeding

Oviposition and incubation usually begin in mid-April. Martins lay from three to five solid white eggs, weighing three to five grams each. The incubation period is about 14 days. The hen spends 70-80% of daylight hours incubating the eggs. The male usually helps the hen incubate the eggs. Martin chicks grow rapidly over the next two weeks, then the weight gain slows dramatically. Both parents feed the young. Martin chicks remain in the nest for a long period, typically 28-35 days. After fledging, the young may return to the nest to be fed by the parents.

Purple Martin Housing

The main reason people fail to attract martins is because the houses are placed incorrectly. Martins need lots of space to maneuver freely around the house. For this reason, houses should be placed in the center of the most open spot available. This should be a minimum of thirty feet from any trees, standing structures or overhead wires.
Birds seem to prefer several small martin houses instead of one large apartment-style colony. Twelve to twenty four rooms are preferable to a house with hundreds of rooms. Martin houses should be opened just after the first sightings of the martins in the spring. Improperly designed houses may have rooms that are too small, which may result in nestlings overheating and dying during hot summer days.
Nesting rooms should be about six inches by six inches by six inches to prevent overcrowding of nestlings. Good ventilation and drainage are necessary. The entrance to the nest should be 2 ½ inches in diameter and one inch above the base. Landing shelves should be very narrow to discourage other birds from using the rooms.
Houses should be 10-20 feet above the ground on a pole. No tall bushes or vines should be near the base of the pole. The house should be near water, if possible. The neatest thing about purple martins is that they allow inspection of their houses without causing any disruption to the breeding season. The house on a pole may be connected to a pulley system, and the house may be raised and lowered like a flag. The adult martins will circle around the lowered house or perch on a wire, waiting for the house to be raised back into position. With this system, it is possible to keep accurate records on number of eggs laid, number hatched, number of chicks that fledge, and number of compartments utilized.
Once martins have left for the winter migration, the house should be thoroughly cleaned.

Set Up a Habitat

It is very easy to attract purple martins, and this can be a very enlightening family hobby. By joining the Purple Martin Conservation Association, you can actively conduct research and contribute to the database of purple martin breeding information.