How to care lovebirds at home

Lovebirds remain lovely only when lovebird care is foolproof. All of us who have had parrots or other pets or children in the house know what it is to take care of babies. Parrots, especially lovebirds have very sensitive immune systems. This means that at the first sign of illness, you should contact your veterinarian immediately. Even a simple virus can turn deadly overnight. Lovebird care means, first and foremost, a regular checkup of their plumage. Preening is the lovebird's natural way of taking care of its plumage. You can encourage this by occasionally misting it with warm water.There is nothing like sweet home. So, selecting the right cage for your lovebirds is an important part of lovebird care. Lovebirds need a lot of exercise. The cage you buy should have sufficient room for it to play around. Most cages come with 2 perches. For more specialised lovebird care, you can attach a cuttlebone to the side of the cage. This will help keep the bird's beak in good condition besides working as a source of calcium and other minerals.The most important step in love bird care is the positioning of the cage. This crucial decision lays the foundation of your relationship with your lovebird. This also determines your lovebird's mood, play fullness and attitude to you and your family! Do you know exactly how many times a week your lovebird needs to have a bath during the summer? During the winter? Improper love bird care can result in feather plucking, moody and ill-trained lovebirds at home.It is a training manual that gives you all possible tips to train your lovebird in only a few days' time! She shares all her secrets to stop all the bad behaviour of lovebirds and make it a happy, singing and lovable pet. A well trained lovebird is the fruit of successful lovebird care.She tells you everything you need to know about love bird care. Learn about the 9 major diseases that can affect your lovebird, young parrot diseases and the 10 most common injuries that can affect your lovebird.

How to care dog hair loss at home

One of the miserable bane’s of a dog’s life is losing their fur or hair. You don’t like to look at the results, and your dog doesn’t like the irritation that most often is the cause of the problem. If your dog suffers from this problem you know what we mean. Chances are good at some point you may well have to deal with one or more of the causes discussed in articles on this website. There are several principal reasons for this uncomfortable and visually unhealthy looking condition. This website has several informational articles that deal with some of the major causes of this unsightly and irritable state for your dog. We hope you find the information valuable.These articles are not meant to be the end all answer to every condition or provide deep solutions. Rather, this website contains articles which will help you potentially identify a situation your dog may be experiencing. Some of the symptoms of the various causes of your dog’s hair loss problem are similar. These symptom point to health issues your dog is experiencing.Providing help and relief for your pet, when they appear to be suffering so, is a major need for pet lovers. There are, in most cases, helps you can offer your ailing dog . . . good hygiene and nutrition are good starts. In severe cases of the malady or disease, or if your just aren’t sure, you will be best served to consult with your veterinarian. Early detection and treatment can alieve you dog of a great deal of mental and physical stress. Dog hair loss is a blight which neither you or your dog wants to go through.We recommend you start the articles with “Dog Hair Loss Overview” which gives you a snapshot of some of the more prominent causes of dog hair loss. There will be links to articles with more information and explanation on these leading causes.We make this disclaimer for obvious reasons, but feel the information provided is worthwhile and helpful for those who have a dog with one of these problems–which could be the culprit for your dog’s hair loss:

Pet Cure: How to care white garman sheaped at home

Pet Cure: How to care white garman sheaped at home: "The white g erman shepherd puppy owner needs to know what to do and what to expect from their German shepherd puppy once they bring it ..."

How to care white garman sheaped at home

The white  german shepherd puppy owner needs to know what to do and what to expect from their German shepherd puppy once they bring it home as taking care of the furry little bundle of joy can be both fun and easy. The first thing one should think of in German Shepherd puppy care is to socialize the puppy who has spent the past few months in the company of its mother and littermates and it would be helpful to take it to new places and get it used to new sounds and get accustomed to children as well as noisy traffic outside the house.

Since the world of the white german shepherd puppy is one of senses it is very important that one continues to socialize the puppy during the first months of its life. According to studies conducted on caring for white german Shepherd puppies, the best time for socializing the puppy is between eight and 16 weeks of age. One should also take out time from one’s own busy schedules and take the puppy out so that it does becomes accustomed to the surroundings and gets off to the right start.

Dog Food

Once the puppy gets accustomed to its new surroundings one can begin to take care of it. Obviously, the first thing in the mind of the puppy would be food and for this one should select a dry food that is specially prepared for puppies and one should not give the puppy genetic food or other cheap dog foods. In addition, the food should not be very rich in protein or have lots of vitamins as these could be harmful for the puppy.

Another aspect of white german Shepherd puppy care is to remember to feed the puppy thrice a day and remember to let the puppy eat as much as it wants. It is not recommended to give it food that humans eat. Rather, it should be given a balanced diet not laced with too many indulgences with goodies. When a puppy has attained the age of between six and 18 weeks it tends to lose its disease protection that it received from its mother and is now capable of forming its own immunity to disease. However, there may be a lag between these two phases and so to prevent the puppy from contracting diseases; it is wise to give it distemper and parvovirus to help it combat unwanted diseases.

One should also give the puppy rabies shots which may be given to it at 16 weeks of age and may be bolstered a year later and from then on every one to three years. As part of white german Shepherd puppy care, one may also treat the puppy with antibiotics to help it combat Lyme Disease and it is also a good idea to vaccinate the puppy.

When caring for your white german Shpeherd puppy, make it a point to toilet train the puppy after five weeks of age. With some effort and patience, the puppy will have learnt how to keep its surroundings clean. After the puppy wakes up in the morning one can take it outside to inculcate good habits in it. Remember also to brush and bathe the puppy regularly and also remember to keep its weight down. When caring for your white german Shepherd puppy, you should also be consistent as well as firm with them when training them. This little furry bundle of joy is a welcome addition to any household and so, before it enters the house one should be preparing for a white erman Shepherd puppy with lots of love and care and anticipate that it will add a new dimension to the household.

How to Care for a American Cocker Spaniel at home

The coats of the Cocker Spaniel should be brushed each and every few of days in purchase to maintain it in fine condition and every few of months or so you might must get the head of hair clipped. Also, throughout grooming sessions you ought to check the ear canals to make positive which they are dirt-free and dry.
Cocker Spaniel Care instructions:
1. Brush your dog daily, getting careful not to pull out the hair. Shampoo regularly. Cocker spaniels are typical shedders. when you maintain your dog's coat long, it will must be trimmed every 4 months.
2. Be ready to enjoy 12 to 15 years with your cocker spaniel - this is the cocker spaniel's typical existence expectancy.
3.When you cannot supervise your puppy, put her in a crate that's just big enough for her to rest and turn close to in, so she won't go towards bathroom in it. When your puppy is through, give her plenty of praise. Consider crate training your cocker spaniel right up until she's housebroken. each and every time the puppy eats, carry her outdoors to one area where you would like her to go towards bathroom.
4. Expect male cocker spaniels to mature to a height of 15 inches; females develop to 14 inches. Both will weigh between 24 and 28 pounds.
5. Walk your cocker spaniel daily, getting careful not to let her walk through brush, as her coat can get tangled easily.
6. Check nails every 2-3 weeks and trim them when it needed.
7. Socialize cocker spaniels early on with people, youngsters and pets. They possess a tendency to be timid if not socialized.
8. You must Know some health problems in cocker spaniels, which includes cataracts, glaucoma and patellar luxation. They may also have Hip dysphasia and allergies.
9. Feed your cocker spaniel high-grade dog food. The first ingredient should be meat if you would like a quality product. Crude protein should be no under 30 % and crude fat no under twenty percent. The fibers content needs to be four % or less.
10. Clean your cocker spaniel's eyes on a regular basis with moist cotton wool pads. Use a different pad for each and every eye to steer obvious of spreading any possible infections.
11. Vaccinate your cocker spaniel when you first get her and adhere to up with yearly booster vaccinations to maintain the dog's immunity to diseases. Seek tips from your veterinarian about flea control products and worming your dog.

How to train a Saint Bernard puppy at home

Instructions

• Bernard dog

                                                                Step 1:

When you first bring your puppy home, show him the area where he will be sleeping. You want to give him a comfortable place where he can be with the family, and safely confined overnight until he is house trained. He may whine the first few nights as he misses his litter mates, but he'll soon adjust to his new family.

• Step 2:

The first few months with your St. Bernard puppy, you should be focused only on him learning the commands for sit, stay, come and no. You can practice these cues with him about ten minutes each day. Most of the first few months will be establishing a routine that will help the puppy feel comfortable. Feeding at certain times, bathroom right after eating, playtime, grooming that long coat and naptime in between. As much interaction as you can have with your family and strangers (going out for walks or going in the car) will help your dog socialize and feel secure and bonded with you.

• Step 3:

As for curbing bad habits, the best way to keep a St. Bernard from learning to bark excessively is to stop it immediately with a firm "no." The same goes for nipping, chewing and whining. A puppy will rarely continue to do any of these things if he gets a negative response from you, and if you are around to teach him more positive behaviors. Teaching a St. Bernard early on not to jump on people is essential. If he starts to jump, pull the leash back with a jerk and say "no!" You will learn as you get to know him, right before he is going to jump on someone and you can put him in a Sit/Stay to keep the behavior from happening, and reward him instead with positive reinforcement for the Sit/Stay.

• Step 4:

A St. Bernard responds well to house training if you start off and continue in the exact same way each day. If the dog has a solid routine and knows when he eats and when he goes outside, and that he's expected to go outside to pee, he'll get used to this habit and continue it. In the house he should be contained when you're not playing with him, so you know where he is and he isn't free to wander around and make a mistake with peeing in the house. Once he's house trained he can roam freely, but a very young puppy isn't mature enough to understand house training. The routine over several months will teach it to him.

• Step 5:

A St. Bernard is a loving, devoted animal. If you celebrate all his accomplishments with verbal praise ("Good!" and "YAY!"), your dog will try very hard to please. A food reward is good too, but you want your dog to respond to your pleased reaction. Help your dog to learn the correct behaviors and then emphasize the good at the moment the dog is obeying, and you will have him obeying in no time. The only time to correct a negative behavior is when he's in the middle of doing the negative behavior. If he's torn up the couch and you find it hours later and punish him, he won't have any idea what you're doing and only learns to fear you. Keep negative behavior at a minimum by confining the dog to a safe area when you can't be with him and you'll have less to be angry about and more to congratulate him on!

Tibetan Mastiff dog

After 6 Months of Age
You are now heading into a new developmental stage with your TM puppy that is akin to the early teenage years of the human child. The little dimmer switch that controls many of the facets of the TM character, including the guardian instinct, is starting to turn up a notch or two and many of you may be surprised to learn just how strong your TM's character can be.
The Boys

One of the least obvious signs of maturity is a basic fact of life and, perhaps, has already happened for your male Tibetan Mastiff puppy. Males are, or soon will be, producing sperm. Please don't be fooled by the innocent look on your puppy's face or his antics. These male puppies can and will easily sire a litter if given the opportunity. Before the cold autumn days arrive, make sure to check yard fencing, double gate latches and strengthen any weaknesses that may exist on your property that will enable your male to escape. Your TM does not care that the furry Golden Retriever girl down the street isn't a Tibetan Mastiff. For multiple dog households, be very careful to protect any intact females that may live with you. Watch for signs of your young girl coming into season. Make plans now to board your male or find a safe and secure containment solution.
The Girls

Within the next 3-6 months, intact females will be going through their first fall/winter season and, consequently, their first heat cycle. Girls may start acting a bit wonky or become much more affectionate toward you. They may become "clingy." Like the Tibetan Mastiff male, the females often show a very strong desire to reproduce when their time is upon them. That need (combined with the TMs agility and magical escape artist powers) will amaze you if proper steps are not taken to ensure your female's safety. Speak to the breeder of your puppy and discuss suitable containment solutions.
Raging Hormones

As happens for young teenagers, raging hormones do rule the day and you may notice definite differences in your Tibetan Mastiff puppy. Physically, young dogs can "break out" with skin conditions. When it comes to temperament, this is a time when both males and females typically become more challenging, more headstrong and independent, more territorial, bark more often and for longer periods of time. Hormonal changes will also signal a STRESS period in your dog's life. Your dog's demeanor may change as he may go through a fear period. Noises, car rides and being out and about may intimidate your Tibetan Mastiff. Most dogs will have a sudden change of attitude when it comes to having guests or strangers in "their" homes, "their" yards or approaching "their" cars.
The Owner's Role in Socializing the Tibetan Mastiff On and Off-Property

Regardless of all of these changes it is still the owner's responsibility to socialize your puppy. And if you haven't been paying particular attention, a slight shift in priority might now be given to inviting people into your home. While it is important to do everything you can to ensure that your puppy becomes an exemplary example of the breed OFF-PROPERTY, you can in no way forget how important it is to hold socializing sessions ON-PROPERTY. Your Tibetan Mastiff needs to be introduced to others on his own turf so that he can be taught appropriate reactions/responses.
Off-Property Socialization
Off-property socialization does NOT include off-leash sessions!

There's nothing quite as pretty as an early morning walk on the weekend. Leaves softly rustling in the breeze, birds twittering in the treetops, dewdrops of crystal sparkling on the grass, an enticing dirt path inviting you and your dog with promises of relaxing adventure. It's so easy to slip that collar....

As caregivers we seem to want to find a kind of fulfillment in seeing our "dogs be dogs" in natural settings. Admittedly, there may be nothing more satisfying than watching your TM youngster have complete freedom to explore a hiking trail, a deserted sideroad, an unfenced part of your own property or an open field but these pictures of Disney happiness can soon shatter in the real world.

The trouble with the freedom scenario is the predictability of the unpredictable. The problem is that you and your TM are bound to meet up with a lone figure, a team of owner and dog, traffic or wildlife and your TM is going to feel challenged or want to investigate and/or protect. A brief encounter with a stranger may trigger your TM's guardian instincts, or, in turn, he may be attacked by another dog. (And just because you haven't ever seen your TM be anything other than sweet, you can rest assured that your dog is NOT going to back down.) It may be that a merry chase after a squirrel or rabbit means your dog is led away from you and lost forever. Perhaps the innocent spying of an unfamiliar animal such as your neighbor's prowling new kitten can explode into a tragic event. Disasters can occur simply because of the TM's motivation to explore, attack or kill an animal within his reach because he feels the need to defend against the unknown or due to sheer prey drive.

It is irresponsible and reckless to begin the habit of letting your Tibetan Mastiff off-leash in the first place. For those that have begun the practice it is with the intention that "at the first sign that he will not listen" you will begin confining your dog to a collar and leash. This thinking is illogical and flawed. It may very well be that the first time that your TM does not respond to you is the time when he meets the bumper of a car or scares/bites a child. As with any off-leash circumstances, you have no way to intervene with what is unfolding before your eyes and what you thought was a secure situation can pose a dangerous or even life-threatening moment for your dog. While it may not present as pretty a picture, you will easily avoid calamity and heartbreak by a simple tug on the leash.
Off-property socialization sessions do NOT include off-leash parks!

While a fun place for many breeds, the average Tibetan Mastiff does not do well in an off-leash park setting. A Sunday romp with his furry little buddies in a fenced-in park all sounds perfect enough until "that moment." When "that moment" comes for your Tibetan Mastiff varies from dog to dog but the results of "that moment" are all the same. Socialization of this type eventually provides an opportunity for your TM to establish his independence, bullying skills and outright dominance because of his territorial instincts. He will challenge or be challenged. He will guard or square off. He may even jump the low park fence, run off or be killed in traffic. To repeat, as with any off-leash circumstances, you have no way to intervene with what is unfolding before your eyes and what you thought was a secure situation can pose a dangerous or even life-threatening moment for your dog.
Dogs Are Not Little People in Fur Coats!!

"Do not make the mistake of treating your dogs like humans or they will treat you like dogs." - Martha Scott

As seasons blend one into the other, life's routines naturally change for many of us. Humans are typically quite flexible when it comes to turning the pages of the calendar but remind yourself often that the TM is not comfortable with change. Sudden deviations of routine, weather, different work schedules or a variance in family traffic in and out of the house does mark a time when a young TM will feel the need to challenge. Those people employed in a home-based business or employees such as housekeepers may not be viewed as friendly anymore. Daughters who return to school, begin dating and suddenly show up wearing their boyfriend's jacket, friends coming over who wear hats, dark sunglasses or bulky fall/winter clothing may put your TM on high alert. Should you have older children going away to college or university, their sudden return at Thanksgiving or Christmas holidays may be viewed as threatening. Take a little extra time and use sensible strategies of re-introducing family members.

Owners can easily come to terms with the fact that dogs may become guardy over such things as dogfood/bones or possessions but we often don't think ahead to the fact that a dog may also show guardian tendencies when it comes to any regurgitated food, animal holes dug in the yard or even underwear that he's stolen out of your bedroom. While these examples may seem frivolous and silly to you, they are actual problems that escalated into biting episodes that breeders have had to council owners about when young dogs have shown that they are willing to establish their dominance. Despite the fact that we call him man's best friend, we need to remind ourselves that a dog is not a little person in a fur coat. Humans and animals do not perceive the world or communicate in the same ways.
Having the Run of the House and Yard

While cute and cuddly, extremely affectionate and loyal to you and quickly winning your heart, please take a deep breath and call attention to the fact that you have brought a primitive GUARDian breed into your home. And whether you have thought about this or not, allowing your puppy complete freedom throughout your home and yard signals to him that you already trust him to have the maturity, intelligence and response-ability to guard "his" territory. Of course that simply just isn't the case. Granting complete access of your household and property to your TM is tantamount to handing over the keys to your house, car and safety deposit box to a 13-year old. Just as children need rules, boundaries and a guiding hand to learn responsibility, Tibetan Mastiffs need an established set of rules, restrictions and an authoritative reassuring hand on the leash to get them through their puppyhood.

Take sensible precautions when others enter your home. Do not allow your Tibetan Mastiff to rush the door when visitors come a-calling. Teach him that knocks on the door or a door bell ringing signals a time when he must know his manners. Also do not allow your Tibetan Mastiff to charge at strangers/guests that are coming on your property. Strategies such as crating, putting the puppy safely in another room or having a leash handy to secure your dog is always a good idea. Train for behavior that you want your Tibetan Mastiff to exhibit. Make your TM earn the privilege of being out in company and proceed with a slow introduction of dog and guests. A more relaxed approach will help ease the natural excitement/tension that will build in your dog. Incorporate indoor leash training and verbal commands to help show your puppy what kind of behavior is acceptable. Start out with intervals of minutes so that your TM can make the acquaintance of your guests and earn your praise by his good behavior.

Establish that this is YOUR territory and not the Kingdom of Tibetan Mastiff. Because TMs are acutely responsive to the activity going on in your home or out in your yard, NEVER allow your Tibetan Mastiff to lie down in doorways, across stairways (inside or outside), or set up to "sleep" in hallways. These strategic areas are your TM's best bet to supervising and controlling the movement of family, guests and/or domestic help in the house. Many TMs will decide that guests may sit and visit in the living room but unannounced, sudden and unaccompanied departures to other parts of the home (such as a quick trip to the bathroom, for example) may trigger your TM's internal security alarm, especially if your guest is forced to step over your dog at the threshold of a room. Keep TMs away when social situations call for the serving of food. A small child that is running around with food in hand or an adult that has a plate of food balanced on a knee may serve to create a competitive and dangerous situation. Instead, plan accordingly and give your puppy intervals of downtime away from the stimulation of loud talking/laughing and unfamiliar movements by strangers. While you don't want your puppy to spend all his time in a crate, in a room or behind fencing when you have guests, your TM also doesn't need to be on display for your callers' entire visit. There has to be a happy balance.

While YOU may gauge your puppy's level of character to be sweet and non-threatening, your Tibetan Mastiff is learning more and more to listen to his own guardian instincts. And no matter how much we just want everyone to "get along and play nice" dogs do not always respond in the ways we would like them to or in ways we can easily and immediately understand. Along with the guidance and experience that your dog's breeder can offer you, it is imperative that you use a combination of common dog sense and intuition when it comes to interpreting situations that caring for a TM may present to you. Before problems arise, strategize to reduce your puppy's need to be on alert, to guard, patrol and protect.

How to Clean Dog Ears ( Video )

Even though we give them lots of good scratches, when it comes to grooming, the ears of dogs are frequently the most neglected parts of their bodies. But their ears are also one of the most important areas to attend to. Ear infections can be serious, and can begin easily if an animal's ears are not kept clean. After all, how will Biffer know when to start salivating if his ears don't pick up the sound of kibble hitting his bowl? Make sure your furry guests keep their ears perked up by following these Video.

How train German Shepherd puppy

German Shepherd dogs were bred to be working dogs and serve man. They are large dogs with very active minds. Not only do German Shepherds need training, but they crave it. Training gives the German Shepherd a job to occupy his mind and body. An untrained German Shepherd will be out of control, difficult to handle and unhappy.                                               Difficulty:

Moderately Easy
Instructions

1 Establish yourself as leader of the pack. German Shepherds are pack dogs.


They are also very large and very strong willed. If you do not assert yourself as Alpha dog, your German Shepherd will gladly step into the roll. It is very important to let your German Shepherd know that you are in control and in charge.
     
2 Get your dogs attention. Your German Shepherd is eager to learn but in order to learn he has to focus on you and what you are trying to teach him. Always train your Shepherd in an area that is free of distractions and make sure you have his undivided attention.


     
3 Be consistent. Your German Shepherd is eager to please you, but in order to do so she must understand what you want. If the rules are constantly changing, she will be confused and frustrated because she will not understand what she must do to please you.


     
4 Start informally training at home at eight weeks of age. Your Shepherd puppy is then old enough to learn things such as going to the bathroom outside and to not bite or jump.
     
5 Leash train your German Shepherd puppy at ten weeks old. This is very important because he is going to grow up to be very big and strong. If he is not trained to walk well on a leash you will find he walks you when he is an adult.
     
6 Attend Basic Obedience Class with your puppy when he is four months old. In class you will teach your German Shepherd important commands such as sit, stay, down and come.


     
7 Understand that is never too late to train a German Shepherd. Unlike some dog breeds, a German Shepherd is very intelligent and can learn throughout their entire life. A German Shepherd is never too old to train.

how to trim my bird's nails

Trimming your bird's nails should be a fairly simple procedure provided you know what you're doing and have a good bird holder or other safe restraint method. The equipment you need includes a Cutting Device: on smaller birds this can be a pair of human nail trimmers. On larger parrots, you will need to use either scissor-style pet nail trimmers, or "guillotine-style" ("Rescoe") nail trimmers. Be sure your blades on any cutting implements are sharp and not rusted. You will also need styptic powder to stop the bleeding. This can be obtained at any pet store ("Kwik-Stop") or you can use a human styptic pencil. Be warned that styptic powder on an open wound or cut is painful, so be careful! If you accidentally cut a nail and it bleeds, and you do not have styptic powder, flour will do in an emergency. Remember: if you feel nervous about doing this procedure yourself, don't do it! Go to an avian vet or a professional bird groomer!

Long, overgrown toenails can be very dangerous to your bird. They are not only painful when you hold your bird, but they are more likely to get caught in toys, cages, carpet, etc. The result could be a broken toe! Also, long toenails could impede your bird's walking or perching, causing his toes to curl in awkward positions.





Inside every toenail is a blood supply, or "quick". If cut, this will begin to bleed and can be very painful. It is not, however, deadly, so if you do cut into the blood supply, do not panic. Simply apply styptic powder or flour to the source of the blood and apply pressure for a few seconds. The bleeding should stop (if not, add more powder). Different birds have different quick lengths and different ideal nail lengths.





It may be hard to estimate how short to cut your bird's nails initially. Unless the bird has white nails, it is also very hard to visualize how long the blood supply is. Ideally, we trim the nail just past the blood supply. On some birds, this may be only the very tip of the nail. In the beginning, clip conservatively. If you hit blood on one nail, cut the others a little longer. In time, you will get to know your bird's ideal length. Keeping up-to-date on nail trims may help keep the quicks from getting too long.


For your bird's first nail trim it is a good idea to watch a professional groomer do the nails (have them show you what you can do at home), so you can see how far back you can go.




Well trimmed nails are an important part of a bird's health. Cutting nails is fairly simple, once you get the hang of it. More advanced groomers often do this procedure with a tool called a Dremel. It is similar to a drill, but with a straight body and a small, rough stone as a bit. Using this device one can not only trim back the nail quickly and effectively, but can round off the edges, too. (Please do NOT use a Dremel to do your bird's nails if you own one of these tools. It can be dangerous if you do not know what you are doing!)


WARNING! When trimming your bird's nails, be watchful of the position of the other toes! They can easily get stuck in your nail trimming device and get cut!

hair lose treatment for cats

Cats shed constantly, so there's a certain amount of natural hair loss every cat owner should expect. However, bald patches, "hot spots" (areas that are inflamed and red and that the cat may lick or scratch excessively), and hair that gets so sparse you can see the skin underneath are all signs of a problem.

Hair loss happens for reasons as simple as a scar to more serious causes such as skin fungus, mites or fleas, or hormonal imbalances. Dermatitis is another word for inflamed skin, and many kinds of dermatitis result in hair loss, too. Stress can also cause hair loss. A stressed cat not only sheds more but a very anxious cat may actually tear out her own hair by excessive licking or chewing.
Excessive shedding can produce bald spots on your cat.
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Excessive shedding can produce bald spots on your cat.

What to Do

Location, location, location. If the hair loss is someplace you see your cat licking, biting, or scratching regularly (leg, paw, or side, for example), it could be a "hot spot" that is stress-induced or a reaction to bites from fleas or mites. Check your cat's coat for parasites. If it's a flea-bite allergy, you'll have to get rid of the fleas before you can hope to have the hair grow back. If the hair loss is in a hard-to-reach place (between the shoulder blades, for example) or in many places, it's probably not the cat doing it to herself. If the hair loss seems limited to one area of the body (for example, on the legs from the paws up to the "elbows"), suspect a "contact allergy" or something similar. (Hair loss on the lower legs may be a reaction to new carpeting.)

You are what you eat. Have you been cutting corners on food costs by giving Tabby an off-brand or trying to go with table scraps only? Hair loss can be a sign of improper nutrition, so make sure your cat is getting the nutrients she needs.

Less stress is best. Actually, this advice could be added to every remedy! However, once your cat develops the habit of chewing, licking, or pulling out hair, it might be hard to break even after you cut down on stress. Do not scold or otherwise punish your cat when you see her working on a "hot spot" or pulling out hair. Scolding just adds more stress. Instead, try some behavior modification. Give her something else to do: Engage her in active play, pet her, open a securely screened window and let her sniff the great outdoors. Substituting a happy and fun activity for the bad habit redirects her attention and energy.

When to Call the Vet

A cat with hair loss plus other signs of disease--fever, loss of appetite, weight loss, vomiting -- needs to be seen by a veterinarian immediately. Certain kinds of alopecia are caused by parasites or fungus that can be passed to people, so the sooner a cat with no other symptoms than hair loss is seen by the vet, the better.

DANGER LEVEL: Alopecia by itself is not dangerous, although it may be a signal that internal organs are not working right -- a condition that could be moderately to very dangerous.

In our next section, we will cover another cat-hair problem -- hairballs. Learn how to stop the constant hacking and coughing

American Bobtail cat is very friendly

The American Bobtail has become increasingly popular these past few years. These cats are very friendly and great family pets, they get along great with children.Also they seem to adapt and accept other pets in the household. They can be mischievous and they love to play. These cats will enjoy a good game of fetch the ball. They do not mind at all being handled by humans. The American Bobtail is “famous” for its ability to escape from tight places. American Bobtail CatThe American Bobtail can be either a short-haired or long-haired cat. They come in many different colors.  It has a broad head and large eyes. Their back legs are a little longer than their front legs.The American Bobtail has a short well-haired tail. Because of the short tail this cat is not too fond of climbing. They are prohibited from having full use of their tail for balancing purposes.



Their tailes are only from one to four inches long. This is how they are born.The American Bobtail seems to be very sensitive to the moods of humans. This has in many cases made them good “therapy” cats, as they may tend to try to comfort someone feeling tense.Many believe that theAmerican Bobtail can be traced back to a homeless kitten found in Arizona near an Indian Reservation in the 1960’s. A couple named Brenda and John Sanders adopted the kitten and named him Yodie. After returning home Yodi mated with their Siamese cat named Mishi. Some of the kittens of this litter had short tails. One of these cats born with a short tail was in time to give birth to kittens that all had short tails.A new breed of cats had come to stay. Mindy Schulz (a friend of the family) named these gorgeous

dog dandruff treatment

Skin disorders are fairly common among dogs. The most common problem is flaky skin and dandruff, which can lead to scratching and irritation. Some causes of this condition are poor diet, dry skin, allergies and infestation. Often this problem can be treated at home by making simple changes in your dog's life. Experiment with different products until you find what works for your dog. He will be much more comfortable and happier once the dry, itchy skin has been treated.

1 Provide high-quality food for your dog. Inexpensive food may lack essential nutrients that promote healthy skin. It also may contain additives that your dog is allergic to.


 
2 Bathe your dog with moisturizing shampoo. Many brands of shampoo are made for sensitive skin and to treat dandruff.
 
3Supplement your dog's food with vitamins, such as cod liver oil, and vitamins C and E.
 

4Clean your dog's living area and wash his bedding. Reduce the use of harsh chemicals in areas where the dog sleeps, such as carpets and tiled floors.
 

5Take the dog to your veterinarian if skin symptoms do not improve. There may be an underlying cause that requires medical attention, such as allergies or parasites.

Tips & Warnings

Consult your veterinarian before making large changes in your dog's diet. The changes may cause gastrointestinal distress if made too rapidly.